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Joined: January 2003 Posts: 1498
Location: San Bernardino, California | I just received a Viper III that's been molested. I've put a schematic of the way it's wired in the gallery. How close is it to stock? |
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Joined: February 2002 Posts: 5750
Location: Scotland | Bruce, it looks OK. The Viper 111 has a tone control which operates only on the neck & middle p/u's and an individual on/off switch for each PU. The DC resistance of the bridge pickup looks a little low. According to the spec I have the pickups were wound differently according to position with the bridge & middle having 5000 winds & the neck 10000. Does it have stock pickups? |
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Joined: January 2003 Posts: 1498
Location: San Bernardino, California | The pickups look like they MIGHT have been rewound, but it's hard to tell. Somebody did replace the controls and at least one of the capacitors. Other then that (and a cracked pickguard) it seems to be in good shape. |
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Joined: May 2002 Posts: 3005
Location: Las Cruces, NM | That reminded me to ask a question of the knowledgeable. My Viper has small cracks developing around the cord plug. Could I remove the pick gaurd and superglue some reinforcement around it on what would be the other side of the pick gaurd, and stop the cracking? I have never removed the Pick Gaurd so I no idea what's behind it. |
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Joined: January 2003 Posts: 1498
Location: San Bernardino, California | There should be shielding foil on the back of the pickguard (on about half of it). You can sometimes lift the foil up, depending on how dry the glue has gotten. If you rip it you could probably patch it with some tin foil. Just use the jack to hold the tinfoil in place. All you need to insure is that the added foil makes good contact with the rest of the foil. NOTE: the crack is likely to be worse on the back of the pickguard so be careful. Getting the pickguard up is easier if you raise the pickups up as high as they'll go (gets them out of the pockets routed in the body more). If you remove the neck you don't have to do this. |
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