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January 2004
Posts: 338
Location: SE Michigan | My new 1777 LX arrived today and it is in mint condition, I am very happy with it, But the set up was terrible.
It has two shims under the saddle which look to be a bit thinner than 1/32. I pulled BOTH of these shims out and the action,while much more playable,is still a bit high; over 3/32's on the bass side, slightly less at the treble side. And the saddle seems to be sitting pretty low in the bridge.
The truss rod seems to be set correctly, there is a very slight space at the 5th fret when you hold the string down at the 1rst and 12th fret (this has always been my understanding of how neck deflection should be set).
Does it need a neck reset already? I hear that these new LX's have a dual-action truss rod, maybe the adjustment of that should be different? Also I hear that the neck has two bolts to facilitate changing the neck angle, anyone have experience
adjusting these?
Thanks |
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January 2004
Posts: 338
Location: SE Michigan | More info, this guitar does seem to have a bit of a top-belly. If you lay a straight edge acrross the top below the bridge and measure the space at the edges, I would say it is bulging about 3/16ths of an inch. I compared this to my Martin D28 and it is buldging about 1/8th of an inch. I looked inside the 1777 LX with a mirror and a light and the braces look fine, no apparent broken braces. Does this sound normal?
Also if you lay a straight edge across the frets down the length of the neck (under string tension) it hits the bridge about 1/8th of an inch below the top surface of the bridge. |
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Posts: 14842
Location: NJ | They're designed that way . . . . |
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Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | The LX bolt on/off neck won't need to be reset, the "arch-top" is as designed. There might be a need to mill the bidge a little deeper.
At this point I would send it to Cust Service before doing anything else or taking unreversible actions (pun intended). |
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March 2002
Posts: 15678
Location: SoCal | Even if you bought it used and don't have the warranty, I'd send it to customer service and get it done right. Might cost you, with shipping, an additional $150 or so, but it would be well worth it to get it right. |
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January 2004
Posts: 338
Location: SE Michigan | MWoody, You say that the LX neck wont need a reset. On any standard guitar I would say that is exactly what was called for here. I am just curious what you have heard. I thought I heard part of the LX design was to facilitate easier neck resets. You can actually slip a piece of paper between the neck and the top, so it isnt finish-bonded. Dont you remember hearing about the two-bolt LX neck?
Thanks |
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Posts: 14842
Location: NJ | "Let's go to the DVD!!" . . . . |
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Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | "Mr. Whoopee! Shall we go to the incredible 3d BB for a little lesson?" TT
My understanding is that when you reset a neck you are removing and replacing (with modifications) the neck to allow for movement of the neck or guitar top/body. You can set it deeper or change angles.
The ANS necks are bolted in so it is in the only position it should be. If the neck is bad - get a new one. It is a lot easier than the heat and push method that is a traditional neck set.
My intent is that with the ANS neck it is not a "Neck reset" as we are used to it.
I could be wrong, it happened once before... |
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January 2004
Posts: 338
Location: SE Michigan | I've got to go through my tour photos and look at the DVD again. I could swear that the LX neck was designed for easy resets. I know it wont be like a Martin dove-tail where you have to drill holes and melt glue by steaming.
Does anyone have any photos of the details of the LX neck joint? Also anyone have details regarding exactly how the dual-action truss rod works?
Thanks again guys |
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March 2002
Posts: 14842
Location: NJ | You DO realize don't you, that NONE of this would've happened to you if you hadn't gone out and bought that Taylor!! . . . .
:D |
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December 2003
Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | I think I am just hung up on the term reset for an LX neck.
Has anyone tried unbolting their LX neck? Is it worth a try to loosen and move the neck up a skosh!
Standing-O, it would really help when polishing! |
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June 2002
Posts: 6202
Location: Phoenix AZ | step 1 - move neck a skosh
step 2 - start polishing
YES, I think this would work for me! |
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Location: SoCal | I'll say it once more, contact Kim or John. |
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Posts: 14842
Location: NJ | Give him time . . .
. . . he'll say it again . . . |
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Location: SoCal | Maybe.... |
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Posts: 14127
Location: 6 String Ranch | He'll say it again..... just wait.....
It really is best too, 860-379-7575, customer service. |
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Posts: 15678
Location: SoCal | DAMN IT!!! CALL CUSTOMER SERVICE!!! BRIAN, YOU KNOW, I MEAN, YOU ABSOLUTELY KNOW THAT IT'S THE RIGHT THING TO DO!!!
Clifford, William, I feel much better now...... |
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Location: closely held secret | Sorry, Paul. I wasn't listening, what dd you say? |
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Posts: 15678
Location: SoCal | John, I'm emotionally worn out from my last post.... |
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Location: Orange County, California | I think someone has been working too hard (or needs their meds adjusted). |
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Posts: 2178
Location: the BIG Metropolis of TR | Brian, I beleive the LX's bolt-on neck was designed for easier neck resets as you stated but I think that once the neck is unbolted (or loosened) then you'd use shims to change the angle of the neck (much like the Taylor bolt-on neck!) instead of the old traditional way of trimming wood from the heel of the neck to change the angle! From what I remember from the '04 tour is that the new LX neck system (ANS) takes minutes instead of hours to do a neck reset!
Best bet is to give the factory a call so they can explain it better! (seems I've heard that somewhere before. ;) ) |
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February 2004
Posts: 1634
Location: Warren,Pa. | I rc'd my slightly used 6778LX in exactly the same condition. I called Kim, we had a little chat, and he assured me that this is NOT a DIY project despite the fact that I have experience working on other guitars. I sent it in. He gave it back to me on the Tour when I arrived and everything is set up the way it should be. I'd tell you to call the Service Dept. John <>{ |
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All shims out, action still a bit high