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Joined:
February 2005
Posts: 2
Location: mi | I got a 1132-1 (matrix?)for free. only one problom the bridge glue and machine screues plus nuts have pulled out of the top of the(sound board?). my first thought was to get some bigger washers and bring out the titebond. Naawww..
any ideas?
the top has 2 long cracks in the varnish each run near the sides. also a crack on both sides of the fret board and three that run from the bridge to the sound hole. all are quite semetrical in placement, strange.
freets in good shape no groves excpt for some corosion under the paint in the alm.
I am hoping to use nylon strings to lessen the stress once I patch it back together. I will leave the steal strings for my 95 celeb wineburst
Russ in MI :confused: |
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Joined:
November 2002
Posts: 3664
Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Y'know, Russ, you're intending the change the spots on your critter, i.e., nylon strings. If you make your repairs carefully, and competently, you can continue to use steel, albeit perhaps light-gauge, strings. Now, let me get this straight- you have a couple separations between the urelite neck and the aluminum fretbooard? As long as the fretboard is not bent, probably need to introduce a bit of epoxy, and reclamp the neck and fretboard.
As for the bridge, get out your heat gun, and CAREFULLY slide a thin-blade knife between the top and bridge (remove the screws first!). If you need to patch some holes, so be it. Hopefully, you can reuse the bridge. If not, making another one is tedious, but not impossible. You can even make it a bit oversize to cover those holes you patched, too!
Crack stabilization is done with some small, thin spruce cleats, glued under the soundboard. As for refilling finish cracks and refinishing the top, search these general discussion archives (after our Sysop, Miles, says it's OK). Looks like you have a real project there.
Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress. |
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Joined:
February 2005
Posts: 2
Location: mi | Yep, she's quite a train wreck.
The bridge came off quite voilently as far as I can tell and pulled the metal retaining nuts thru the sound board the glue must have gave up long before.
The bridge is in very good shape and after geting off all the old glue will work fine for me. The sound board has the two holes from the nuts pulling thru and the many cracks in the finish mainly that I decribed.
The two near the freet board are placed along side the fret board and run along with it but at least 1/2 to 5/8 inch away.
The neck appears to have a solid conection to the body and sound board. Everything looks true and straight.
will epoxy do well for the bridge?
R |
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Joined:
September 2003
Posts: 782
Location: Waurika OK | I though Ovation bridges were put on with some type of epoxy. |
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Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 15680
Location: SoCal | Juicy Fruit. |
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Joined:
November 2002
Posts: 3664
Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | I've used both polyvinyl (Elmer's- the brown kind) & 2-part epoxies. Technically, if you want to remove the bridge- again- use the epoxy, and heat 'er up like the first time. You can keep your gluing real tidy by cleaning around the joint with clear vinegar, BEFORE it sets up.
You ought to post some photos of the repair sequence- most of us are a bit ghoulish, anyway.
Grapefruit, a bathin' suit, chew a little juicy fruit, wash away the night..... |
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iso, instructions and glue for bridge repair
