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shim

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Wagonmaster
Posted 2008-09-01 4:34 PM (#22766)
Subject: shim
Joined:
August 2008
Posts: 121

Location: Maine
As I've posted, I just started playing again after many years. I brought my new Ovation Elite home and despite the sore fingers (they're getting tougher), I'm having a great time. After a few days of playing my new guitar, I noticed that I was struggling with simple chords, getting the strings pressed down firmly, etc. While I was changing the strings today D'Addario light, Phosphor Bronze (feel free to comment here on a better selection for this guitar), I decided to remove one shim. Somehow the action now seems easier. Is this my imagination, or would removing the shim have that effect.
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Omaha
Posted 2008-09-01 4:40 PM (#22767 - in reply to #22766)
Subject: Re: shim


Joined:
November 2005
Posts: 1126

Location: Omaha, NE
Not your imagination. That's exactly what you would expect.

Enjoy your O.
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FlySig
Posted 2008-09-01 6:20 PM (#22768 - in reply to #22766)
Subject: Re: shim



Joined:
October 2005
Posts: 4028

Location: Utah
You'll get a lot of different opinions on strings here! On my elite I like either Martin Marquis phos/bronze lights, or Cleartone phos/bronze lights. The D'adds sound a bit dull to my ears, but lots of folks here like them. Each guitar and each player seem to be a bit different in preference.
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Old Man Arthur
Posted 2008-09-01 6:55 PM (#22769 - in reply to #22766)
Subject: Re: shim



Joined:
September 2006
Posts: 10777

Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR
On another forum; someone pointed-out that D'Addario's are readily available everywhere, which adds to there appeal... and they are relatively cheap. (But not necessarily better)

I use D'Addario EJ16's [12 - 53] on most of my O's... They are cheap, color coded, and Ovation puts D'Addario's on their new guitars... 'cept I think they use EXP's.

EXP's cost three times as much, so I just get 3-packs of EJ's for the same price, and change them when I get inspired.

I use 17's on my 1718 for volume, and it is a big sucker and can take it... [13 - 56]
I use 15's on my 1121 cuz I had to glue the headstock back on, and I am paranoid... [10 - 47]

I don't know how helpful this is, but more information is always good.
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Beal
Posted 2008-09-01 7:55 PM (#22770 - in reply to #22766)
Subject: Re: shim



Joined:
January 2002
Posts: 14127

Location: 6 String Ranch
the action will be easier with the shim out.
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Wagonmaster
Posted 2008-09-02 8:48 AM (#22771 - in reply to #22766)
Subject: Re: shim
Joined:
August 2008
Posts: 121

Location: Maine
There are more shims in there. I don't know if there are one or more. I would guess that there would come a point of getting buzzing if you remove too many? Or is that not the case.
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Omaha
Posted 2008-09-02 9:27 AM (#22772 - in reply to #22766)
Subject: Re: shim


Joined:
November 2005
Posts: 1126

Location: Omaha, NE
That's how it works.

Different players prefer different action. If you are a light, fingerstyle player, you might prefer a lower action. If you are a heavy strummer, you might prefer something higher.

Its all a matter of finding out what works for you.

This falls into the general area of guitar "setup", and there is a lot to it: Height at the bridge (what you are adjusting with your shims), height at the nut (the thing the strings pass through up by the tuners), neck angle, neck straightness, fret evenness, string gauge, etc.

In the real world, at least with Ovation guitars, it seems like most players pull one or two shims out and leave it at that. But ultimately these things come down to your playing style, so there are no "right" answers.
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dweezil
Posted 2008-09-02 9:54 AM (#22773 - in reply to #22766)
Subject: Re: shim


Joined:
April 2008
Posts: 2336

Location: Brighty in Blighty
My first reaction is to remove all the shims and get the action as LOOOOOOOOOOOOW as possible (yes I play finger style).
However you could well get buzzing and choking. So add shims until there's no buzzing or choking.

I often prefer tapered shims to bring the GBE stings up a little higher (as thats where the choking usually happens) and keep the EAD strings low.

I ran for a while with REALLY low action on my '84 Collector putting up with the buzzing in trade off for the low action but favour slightly higher action for less buzzing and more volume from the strings.

It's suck and see. With practice you should be able to just loosen the strings add/remove shims and re-tune. Remember heavier gauge strings will exert more tension on the neck resulting in different action.
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Wagonmaster
Posted 2008-09-02 11:00 AM (#22774 - in reply to #22766)
Subject: Re: shim
Joined:
August 2008
Posts: 121

Location: Maine
Many thanks to all of you for the ongoing education. Having this forum really adds to the enjoyment of my guitar; Knowing that there is support at the click of a mouse.
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Wagonmaster
Posted 2008-09-02 11:54 AM (#22775 - in reply to #22766)
Subject: Re: shim
Joined:
August 2008
Posts: 121

Location: Maine
Just went in and took out the other shim and the thing plays just super. Exactly what I was looking for.
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Beal
Posted 2008-09-02 5:19 PM (#22776 - in reply to #22766)
Subject: Re: shim



Joined:
January 2002
Posts: 14127

Location: 6 String Ranch
Many times you'll need the factory's permission to remove three.
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Yak
Posted 2008-09-02 8:25 PM (#22777 - in reply to #22766)
Subject: Re: shim


Joined:
September 2006
Posts: 347

Location: Reno, NV
I think that there is a balance to be had in removing shims before you end up with no break angle and thinned out tone.
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