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Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Greetings; Can a novice adjust the action at the bridge? To rephrase: Should a novice adjust the action at the bridge. I've read the manual. They make it sound so simple. That is always dangerous. I work for Housing Maintainence, I have tools. I have repaired autos and motorcycles. The diagrams in the manual dont really show if the shims/spacers are above or below the pick-ups. The action is pretty high, I think. I am used to a Made in China Strat, and the action is much lower all the way down the neck.
I also believe that the previous owner put kinda heavy (maybe medium) strings on this thing, hence the volume. So I am gonna go buy some D'Addario EXP Lights, according to recommendations by another member.
So... Someone set me straight. |
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Posts: 11039
Location: Earth·SolarSystem·LocalInterstellarCloud·Local Bub | The shims are under the pick-up, Very easy to do, but if you change the saddle hieght significantly, you may need to tweak the truss rod a 1/4 turn. For that you'll need a hew wrench... |
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Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Thanx. Kinda figgered that the sonic stuff oughta be as close to the bridge as possible. I am leery of taking all the strings off of any guitar, but I read that an Ovation is designed to survive it. I still plan on getting new strings today, either EXP or EJ16's. And I thought that I could do the bridge at that time.
I'm still thinking... I will decide this afternoon, depending on how much more advice I get. Oh, and the previous owner was nice enough to include the allen-wrench for the truss rod, but that may be above my recommended project ability. I may just live with this for a month, or however long it takes me to kill new strings.
Any other input is Welcome. And Thank Y'all for being so tolerant of a novice. |
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Posts: 4903
Location: Phoenix AZ | Originally posted by Old Man Arthur:
I am leery of taking all the strings off of any guitar, but I read that an Ovation is designed to survive it. Why would taking the strings off a guitar matter? Am I missing something?
Dave |
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Location: PDX | OMA, as Jeff says, very easy to do. But if you find you need advice, PM me for my phone number, and give me a call. I'm sure we're practically neighbors.
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gh1 |
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Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Tupperware;
With my Lyon (made by Washburn) MIC Strat it warns, "Do not remove all the strings at once, as this may cause the neck to warp." I don't know how correct this advice is, but it is a cheapie guitar, so maybe...
Everyone is telling me this isn't rocket science, so depending on any further input... I'm going out shopping and will be getting strings. I decide when I get back. |
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Posts: 4903
Location: Phoenix AZ | Hmm. Interesting. I've got 3 Ovations and 1 Martin in cases right now due to lacxk of space, without any strings on them. Just storing them that way for awhile. Maybe I'll be in for a surprise when I open the cases.
Dave |
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Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Something flashed in my memory about putting the strings on, then torquing them up very slowly. Y'know, like just up taut, then quarter-pitch, half-pitch, three-quarters, then full tune. Waiting awhile in between. Or maybe that was the crank-end of connecting rods on a Cummings Diesel. But I think that is the priciple. I hope.
Oh, outside strings in. Or the other way around. |
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Location: closely held secret | Certainly not necessary on an Ovation or Adamas. While I wouldn't recommend, like, cutting all the strings while at full tension (snap!) there will be no harm done removing all the strings at one time. |
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Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Originally posted by Jeff W.:
The shims are under the pick-up, Very easy to do, but if you change the saddle hieght significantly, you may need to tweak the truss rod a 1/4 turn. For that you'll need a hew wrench... Being a newbie, I must ask: Is removing one shim/space considered "significantly"? One shim equals 1/64" at the 12th fret. (If you believe the Manual) Jeff W., or anyone else?
[Maybe I shoulda bought more than one set of strings]
Thanx for everyone's help. I expect to be pestering y'all frequently |
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Posts: 11039
Location: Earth·SolarSystem·LocalInterstellarCloud·Local Bub | Low action is about 3/32 from the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of the E.
If you get it that low, and you're buzz free, no truss rod adjustment is necessary. If you get buzzing you'll need to add a bit of relief. 1/4 turn only |
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Posts: 4071
Location: Utah | Old Man, it ain't rocket science! With your mechanical background I wouldn't expect any problems for you. Just go slowly if you make a truss rod adjustment.
There are a ton of websites with instructions and info about adjusting the truss rod. Here's one, http://www.ovationfanclub.com/cgi-bin/ubb/non-cgi/ultimatebb.php?ub... and another would be http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/pagelist.html
Taking all the strings off is not a problem, although I wouldn't store a guitar like that for a long time, nor would I cut all the strings at once as someone already cautioned.
The EJ16 strings get a lot of endorsements around here, but my preference is Martin Marquis light, phosphor bronze. |
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Location: Snellville, GA | Just loosen each string completely before removing them. How else can you give the guitar and fretboard a good thorough cleaning with all the strings on? |
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Posts: 11840
Location: closely held secret | Originally posted by FlySig:
Just go slowly if you make a truss rod adjustment. This is good advice. The neck will not immediately respond, give it some time before you decide it's not enough. And a little adjustment goes a long way. |
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Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Att. Jeff W. & anyone else...
The clearance is now over 1/8", possibly 5/64". So, according to the Manual, that would be one shim.
Another question: How hard will it be to remove the bridge? Like, will I need to grab it with Needle-Nosed Pliers and yank, or should it just slide out once the strings are gone?
(Just guessing 5/64", I don't have a caliper or micrometer) |
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Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Originally posted by TWA:
Just loosen each string completely before removing them. How else can you give the guitar and fretboard a good thorough cleaning with all the strings on? Q-tips? |
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Posts: 349
Location: Snellville, GA | Originally posted by Old Man Arthur: "Q-tips?"
Thorough? |
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Posts: 972
Location: PDX | Originally posted by Old Man Arthur:
Another question: How hard will it be to remove the bridge? Like, will I need to grab it with Needle-Nosed Pliers and yank, or should it just slide out once the strings are gone?
(Just guessing 5/64", I don't have a caliper or micrometer) it varies. On a couple of my guitars it just slides out. On others i have to work at it. The diameter of the bridge pins and the holes they go in is what varies. Don't worry about it too much. You should also reach under the bridge and push up on the wires of the pick-up to assist.
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gh1 |
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Location: Earth·SolarSystem·LocalInterstellarCloud·Local Bub | To pop-out the saddle, reach into the guitar and locate the wire coming out of the pickup and gently push up, so the saddle comes out of the bridge slot.
At the current string height, I'm guessing you have two shims in there. |
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Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Oh! The whole saddle comes out? I wasn't thinking clearly, Of course, once the strings are gone I can reach inside. But I thought that the saddle was fused to the top? I would think... |
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Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Oh! I type too quickly, the "saddle" is the white thing with the little notches. The bridge is the whole assembly, which is permanently fused. Eh? |
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November 2003
Posts: 11039
Location: Earth·SolarSystem·LocalInterstellarCloud·Local Bub | Yep. The white thing is the saddle. The saddle and pick-up are one unit and they rest in the bridge. |
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Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Oh! Cool!
I will have a chance to get all the dust-bunnies out of the body while I am at it. |
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September 2006
Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Originally posted by Jeff W.:
If you get it that low, and you're buzz free, no truss rod adjustment is necessary. If you get buzzing you'll need to add a bit of relief. 1/4 turn only.
Can I just put, like the first & sixth string on and pull them straigt taut (not tight, full tension) and see it they move freely... And then if necessary adjust the truss rod?
Someone tell me before I do something stupid. |
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November 2003
Posts: 11039
Location: Earth·SolarSystem·LocalInterstellarCloud·Local Bub | Just restring completely and play all the way up the neck making sure to fret the strings cleanly and listen for buzz. If you get buzz, just losen the strings enough to slip your hand and wrench in. |
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4861; Adjusting the action.
