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Joined:
December 2009
Posts: 14
Location: Seattle | Hello,
This is my first post here. It looks like a nice place with lots of information. I recently purchased an Ovation 12 string, model 1615, from a coworker. The guitar is in really good condition, but I think the strings probably need to be replaced. I've never re-strung a 12 string before, and I'm unfamiliar with Ovation guitars in general.
Can someone who is familiar with Ovation 12 string guitars offer a suggestion as to which brand/size strings to replace these with? Also, are there any things I should look for while the strings are off, truss rod, etc? I am a little paranoid about tuning the thing up, since all I'm familiar with are 6 string guitars. Any suggestions on that?
Thanks very much,
Salish
Seattle, WA |
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Joined:
September 2006
Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | First, Welcome!
I use D'Addario EJ36 80/20 Bronze on my 2058T.
I used to use them on my 1115, also.
Everybody will have their own opinion. |
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Joined:
October 2007
Posts: 2711
Location: Vernon CT | First, Welcome salish!
If you do a search you will find many suggestions as to which "brand" to use. Basically, Strings are a personal preference based on what Sounds and feels best to YOU.
I personally use Elixirs. YES, they are expensive
but, last 3-5 times longer. Others will suggest D'dadario's, Cleartone, Martins. It may take you 3-4 string changes to decide what you like. Buy a set, use them, try a different brand.
Good luck! |
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Joined:
December 2006
Posts: 6268
Location: Florida Central Gulf Coast | Salish,
Welcome to the Ovation Family!
Strings are a personal choice based upon the guitar and the owner. There have been many threads on strings. Just do a search and you'll find hours of reading.
I mostly use light Elixir Nanos. But I'm sure you'll get more advise from other members.
Stringing a 12er just takes twice as long as a 6 string... 
(Geeze, I'm really gettin' slow... even Bob beat me on the reply!) :eek: |
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Joined:
December 2009
Posts: 143
Location: Ontario Canada | Hello salish25,
Welcome, I am new also. I have the same guitar as you. I always string with lights. Elixir nanos as 2ifbyC mentions are good. Seem to last as long or longer than any I've tried. I string from the two E strings toward the centre D and G strings first, then I Tune from the centre D and G to the two outside E's. I have found this distributes and keeps the tension on the neck better which keeps the tuned strings from drifting too much and you don't have to go back and redo as often. I hope that makes sense.
Regards
Jim. |
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Joined:
December 2009
Posts: 143
Location: Ontario Canada | Hello again salish25,
This is just to clarify what I meant by "two outside E's".
Imagine the two outside edges of fingerboard at the nut as the two or lets call them four outside E's. They are double courses as you know. Gosh I wish I was better at explaining myself.
Jim. |
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Joined:
February 2004
Posts: 1634
Location: Warren,Pa. | It doesn't really matter what strings you use...you'll experiment and eventually you'll find what you like best. Then you'll experiment some more.
The important thing about your 12string is it's a slothead; that makes re-stringing quite a bit different from the rest. I have a 1115...essentially the same guitar, and I have gotten to really enjoy the periodic string change. Here are some tips:
-Get a string winder. I got a Dunlop Turbotune which has a removeable socket with a hex end on it. I attached this to a little gun-shaped rechargeable screw driver.
-Cut the strings near the bridge, then unwind the strings at the tuners.
-Clean the fretboard with Dunlop 65 fretbd. cleaner
-Re-string from the high-e to the g strings, then from the low e to the d's. You have to work your way up the tuners this way or you'll be in trouble.
- Wrap from the hole in the post to the outside of the headstock, using as many winds as you can. You want to have the finished strings pulling directly from the nut to the tuner post WITHOUT hitting the wood in the center of the headstock. This isn't an issue with the e-strings, but as you work your way up the headstock it becomes an issue. On the unwound strings I use the entire string w/o cutting any off. The wound strings are a little trickier since you may run out of post before the string is pulled tight. Then you have to un-do the string and cut some off.
Some slackers who do anything to avoid a little work don't like slothead 12strings. I sit down with a cup of coffee and some music playing and make a therapeutic project out of it. AND...I wash my hands before I play so that my strings last as long as possible : )
John <>{ |
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Joined:
March 2005
Posts: 5563
Location: Blue Ridge Mountains | D'Addario EXP 38's....I have used them all and these are consistently the best for tone and cost less than Elixirs (I like these too but they are on the expensive side)...you get the coated difference in the EXP 38's...
One very critical step in stringing a Pacemaker or any slothead guitar: always make sure the wrap goes to the outside of the post: toward the tuner...this will keep the strings from coming into contact with the center of the headstock...take the string two posts past the one you need to put it in and cut it off...stick it through from the top of the headstock through the post about a half inch and bend it up toward the top of the headstock...begin to wind the string so the winding turns the post counter-clock wise...the string should be winding clockwise around the shaft...take one turn over the top of the original winding and then all the rest under the original two windings towards the tuner. The string end will have formed a Z lock and passing the first winding on the top will additionally lock the string: you will get much better tuning and it will stay in tune much better. I have used this method for nearly 35 years of playing Ovation Pacemaker 12's...Trust me: it works!
Welcome to the club!!!! |
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Joined:
November 2008
Posts: 1119
Location: Michigan | Mike has some great points. Once you have changed it a few times it is really no big deal.
I start from the outside in from both sides, that way the other strings dont get in the way. I have settled on Martin silk/steels, they give me a bit more upmth on the bass side. To each his own. |
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Joined:
June 2006
Posts: 7307
Location: South of most, North of few | Welcome Salish! I would second the recommendation for Elixir Nano's in .010. They last forever and sound really good on the Ovation 12's. I had a set on a pacemaker for a year and felt guilty for not changing them so I did although they didn't need it. |
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Joined:
December 2003
Posts: 13984
Location: Upper Left USA | Welcome, and I second the elixers. It's good to have another Worshingtonian onboard!
Any chance you are a Pilot and sometimes fly to Australia?
:rolleyes: |
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Joined:
December 2009
Posts: 14
Location: Seattle | Wow, I couldn't have wished for more help! I really appreciate the detailed info and advice. I'm actually going to print this out and keep it as a Clif Note....
MWOODY - Nope, I'm no pilot, and I've never been Down Under.
Thanks,
Cliff |
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Joined:
April 2008
Posts: 2985
Location: Sydney, Australia | Originally posted by MWoody:
Any chance you are a Pilot and sometimes fly to Australia?
:rolleyes: Are there any pilots here who sometimes fly to Australia? Preferably Sydney, Brisbane or Melbourne. |
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Joined:
December 2009
Posts: 143
Location: Ontario Canada | Originally posted by salish25:
Wow, I couldn't have wished for more help! I really appreciate the detailed info and advice. I'm actually going to print this out and keep it as a Clif Note....
MWOODY - Nope, I'm no pilot, and I've never been Down Under.
Thanks,
Cliff Hello Cliff,
Whenever you have her stripped..... of strings...
Check the expiry date on the battery, it may be a good time to repace it.
Jim. |
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Which Strings for Ovation 1615 12 String?
