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Balladeer Deluxe Project

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Nancy
Posted 2015-07-17 4:01 PM (#513554 - in reply to #513450)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project



Joined:
December 2014
Posts: 1713

Location: Frozen Tundra of Minnesota
DanSavage - 2015-07-14 9:18 AM

Well, that's too bad about her not wanting to do custom work. It looks like I poisoned the well.


No you didn't Dan, Vivian gets irate if you try to return ANYthing. I received a broken rosette,and asked to exchange it for a new one, she was furious, refunded my money, then wrote me that the rosette was not broken, and I was wrong. If you look at her feedback on eBay, anytime someone tries to return something, she blocks them from ever buying from her again.

She has nice pieces, but I have found someone who does Custom Work, and their pieces are Incredible, Detailed, and reasonably priced. They are out of Oregon, and Buddy is Great to work with. They are doing the Custom Design fretboard inlays, and headstock inlay for my Custom CL that I will have made when John B is ready.

You can check them out at: http://luthiersupply.com/productspage.html

or on Instagram:

https://instagram.com/depaulesupply/

DePaule Supply

It is really fun watching your project CLRules! Please keep the pictures and updates coming!



Edited by Nancy 2015-07-17 4:28 PM
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clrules
Posted 2015-07-17 7:40 PM (#513557 - in reply to #513318)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project


Joined:
September 2005
Posts: 138

Location: Birmingham, AL
Hopefully I'll get the glue and equipment Monday. I should be able to get started next Thursday. Thanks for all your help and advice, Dan.
Nancy, when I get started I'll post pics as the work progresses and thanks for the leads to the other source for rosettes.

Edited by clrules 2015-07-17 7:45 PM
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DanSavage
Posted 2015-07-18 9:55 AM (#513566 - in reply to #513557)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project



Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 2303

Location: Lake Forest, CA
I did contact DePaule Supply previously about custom work. They're pretty pricey.

They charge $25.00 for the first 1/2 hour and $12.50 every 15 minutes after that.
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clrules
Posted 2015-07-18 5:24 PM (#513572 - in reply to #513318)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project


Joined:
September 2005
Posts: 138

Location: Birmingham, AL
Now we begin. My glue stuff unexpectedly came in today so now I've glued and clamped the headstock. The way it broke gave a lot of gluing area so we'll see....







There is some finish loss along the crack but the wood appears to match up exactly.

Next.....glue the top back on the rim and string her up to see if she'll hold together.
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arumako
Posted 2015-07-19 9:22 PM (#513604 - in reply to #513318)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project



Joined:
October 2012
Posts: 1018

Location: Yokohama, Japan
Nice work clrules...question, are the black plastic covers on your clamps made of non-adhesive materials? Looks pretty cool! Also, couldn't resist noticing the date on the pics...do you live down under? But wait, it's winter down there, but the dates don't change do they? Just teasing...lol.
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DanSavage
Posted 2015-07-20 1:09 PM (#513612 - in reply to #513572)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project



Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 2303

Location: Lake Forest, CA
clrules - 2015-07-18 3:24 PM

Now we begin. My glue stuff unexpectedly came in today so now I've glued and clamped the headstock. The way it broke gave a lot of gluing area so we'll see....

...

There is some finish loss along the crack but the wood appears to match up exactly.

Next.....glue the top back on the rim and string her up to see if she'll hold together.


Looking good. What glue did you end up using?

The finish loss is pretty normal. When I did the headstock on my Ibenez I tinted some finishing resin using dry artist's pigment to match the color.

I also notice you sanded the finish off the headstock veneer. Let me know when you're ready for the logo artwork and I'll post a link to this thread.
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moody, p.i.
Posted 2015-07-20 1:45 PM (#513613 - in reply to #513318)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project


Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 15652

Location: SoCal
I'm looking forward to this thread getting back to the actual Balladeer Deluxe project......
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clrules
Posted 2015-07-21 8:02 AM (#513629 - in reply to #513613)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project


Joined:
September 2005
Posts: 138

Location: Birmingham, AL
immoody - 2015-07-20 1:45 PM

I'm looking forward to this thread getting back to the actual Balladeer Deluxe project......


Last time I checked this guitar was/is a real Balladeer Deluxe. Put on your glasses. If you would bother to read the other posts Dan has his own project which is totally different from this one. Go to that one and troll if you must.
Have a nice day.
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clrules
Posted 2015-07-21 8:08 AM (#513630 - in reply to #513612)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project


Joined:
September 2005
Posts: 138

Location: Birmingham, AL
DanSavage - 2015-07-20 1:09 PM

clrules - 2015-07-18 3:24 PM

Now we begin. My glue stuff unexpectedly came in today so now I've glued and clamped the headstock. The way it broke gave a lot of gluing area so we'll see....

...

There is some finish loss along the crack but the wood appears to match up exactly.

Next.....glue the top back on the rim and string her up to see if she'll hold together.


Looking good. What glue did you end up using?

The finish loss is pretty normal. When I did the headstock on my Ibenez I tinted some finishing resin using dry artist's pigment to match the color.

I also notice you sanded the finish off the headstock veneer. Let me know when you're ready for the logo artwork and I'll post a link to this thread.


I used the hot glue. It worked well and I was surprised it was so easy to use. The veneer was so damaged that I felt that it couldn't be repaired as it was. I think I can fill in the cracks and chips and refinish the veneer in a dark color again with good results.
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clrules
Posted 2015-07-21 8:18 AM (#513631 - in reply to #513604)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project


Joined:
September 2005
Posts: 138

Location: Birmingham, AL
arumako - 2015-07-19 9:22 PM

Nice work clrules...question, are the black plastic covers on your clamps made of non-adhesive materials? Looks pretty cool! Also, couldn't resist noticing the date on the pics...do you live down under? But wait, it's winter down there, but the dates don't change do they? Just teasing...lol.


It appears that the clamps were somewhat non-adhesive, at least to hide glue.... didn't think about that until I tried to remove them, they were stuck to the guitar, but came off fairly easily.. It's a good thing that the Ovation finish is pretty much impervious to everything. I found the clamps at Lowe's and they worked really well.
The camera I used is an older one, the batteries had run down, and I didn't reset the date on it.

Thanks for the comments!
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moody, p.i.
Posted 2015-07-21 8:42 AM (#513632 - in reply to #513629)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project


Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 15652

Location: SoCal
clrules - 2015-07-21 6:02 AM

immoody - 2015-07-20 1:45 PM

I'm looking forward to this thread getting back to the actual Balladeer Deluxe project......


Last time I checked this guitar was/is a real Balladeer Deluxe. Put on your glasses. If you would bother to read the other posts Dan has his own project which is totally different from this one. Go to that one and troll if you must.
Have a nice day.


My mistake.

I'm now a troll? Fuck off kid.....
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DanSavage
Posted 2015-07-21 8:55 AM (#513634 - in reply to #513632)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project



Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 2303

Location: Lake Forest, CA
Play nice, boys. We're all friends here.
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clrules
Posted 2015-07-21 9:03 AM (#513635 - in reply to #513632)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project


Joined:
September 2005
Posts: 138

Location: Birmingham, AL
immoody - 2015-07-21 8:42 AM

clrules - 2015-07-21 6:02 AM

immoody - 2015-07-20 1:45 PM

I'm looking forward to this thread getting back to the actual Balladeer Deluxe project......


Last time I checked this guitar was/is a real Balladeer Deluxe. Put on your glasses. If you would bother to read the other posts Dan has his own project which is totally different from this one. Go to that one and troll if you must.
Have a nice day.


My mistake.

I'm now a troll? Fuck off kid.....


What? You can't take a little sarcasm? No hate intended but obviously recieved. We all like Ovations and that's why we're here.

Edited by clrules 2015-07-21 9:09 AM
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DanSavage
Posted 2015-07-21 9:05 AM (#513636 - in reply to #513630)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project



Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 2303

Location: Lake Forest, CA
clrules - 2015-07-21 6:08 AM

I used the hot glue. It worked well and I was surprised it was so easy to use. The veneer was so damaged that I felt that it couldn't be repaired as it was. I think I can fill in the cracks and chips and refinish the veneer in a dark color again with good results.


Yep. Almost as easy as licking an envelope, which, BTW, is hide glue. (Yum, yum)

Seriously, though, a lot of people are intimidate by HHG, but as you found out, it's pretty easy to use.

One good thing about it is that if you make a mistake, you can use steam to loosen the glue joint, clean off the glue with water, then try again. I had a problem jointing Jay's 485 because I re-used glue that I had cooked up previously and reheated. The water had evaporated out and the glue became really thick and didn't want to spread. This caused really big gaps in the joint. So, I used steam to soften the glue joint, cleaned it up, cooked up a new batch of glue and all was well.

I learned my lesson. Now whenever I'm going to use HHG, I cook up a fresh batch. It's too cheap to waste my time fighting with it.

Yes, that's a good decision. If you have all the pieces, you can jigsaw-puzzle them back into place and fix the missing finish. But, if you don't, and have to add new wood, you're better off taking it back down to bare wood.

Keep up the good work.

Edited by DanSavage 2015-07-21 9:09 AM
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clrules
Posted 2015-07-21 9:06 AM (#513637 - in reply to #513634)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project


Joined:
September 2005
Posts: 138

Location: Birmingham, AL
DanSavage - 2015-07-21 8:55 AM

Play nice, boys. We're all friends here.


I'm trying. Even my wife says I'm a smart ***...but you must have to understand in my family it's a birthright.
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DanSavage
Posted 2015-07-21 9:06 AM (#513638 - in reply to #513635)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project



Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 2303

Location: Lake Forest, CA
clrules - 2015-07-21 7:03 AM
What? You can't take a little sarcasm? No hate intended. We all like Ovations and that's why we're here.


Paul's a nice guy who can give and take with the best of `em. Since sarcasm is sometime hard to detect in the written word, I suggest adding a winky next time so there's no misunderstanding.
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clrules
Posted 2015-07-21 9:11 AM (#513639 - in reply to #513638)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project


Joined:
September 2005
Posts: 138

Location: Birmingham, AL
From one Paul to another...next time I'll winky.
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clrules
Posted 2015-07-21 9:34 AM (#513641 - in reply to #513636)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project


Joined:
September 2005
Posts: 138

Location: Birmingham, AL
DanSavage - 2015-07-21 9:05 AM

clrules - 2015-07-21 6:08 AM

I used the hot glue. It worked well and I was surprised it was so easy to use. The veneer was so damaged that I felt that it couldn't be repaired as it was. I think I can fill in the cracks and chips and refinish the veneer in a dark color again with good results.


Yep. Almost as easy as licking an envelope, which, BTW, is hide glue. (Yum, yum)

Seriously, though, a lot of people are intimidate by HHG, but as you found out, it's pretty easy to use.

One good thing about it is that if you make a mistake, you can use steam to loosen the glue joint, clean off the glue with water, then try again. I had a problem jointing Jay's 485 because I re-used glue that I had cooked up previously and reheated. The water had evaporated out and the glue became really thick and didn't want to spread. This caused really big gaps in the joint. So, I used steam to soften the glue joint, cleaned it up, cooked up a new batch of glue and all was well.

I learned my lesson. Now whenever I'm going to use HHG, I cook up a fresh batch. It's too cheap to waste my time fighting with it.

Yes, that's a good decision. If you have all the pieces, you can jigsaw-puzzle them back into place and fix the missing finish. But, if you don't, and have to add new wood, you're better off taking it back down to bare wood.

Keep up the good work.


Didn't know that about glue on envelopes. Here's some pics of the repair.
The flash kind of covered up some of the repair but the pic wasn't clear without it. Old camera.....



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Cavalier
Posted 2015-07-21 10:05 AM (#513642 - in reply to #513318)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project


Joined:
March 2013
Posts: 359

Location: undisclosed
HHG comes in different strengths but it is all much stronger than the non hot variety. I learned that as a kid going my first violin neck set, nothing like having to do things twice.... Cleanliness is very important in the heating apparatus since it is a organic substance decay can be a problem. Violin making forums probably have some of the most detailed instructions these days as well as sources for the supplies.
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DanSavage
Posted 2015-07-21 2:49 PM (#513649 - in reply to #513641)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project



Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 2303

Location: Lake Forest, CA
clrules - 2015-07-21 7:34 AM

Didn't know that about glue on envelopes. Here's some pics of the repair.
The flash kind of covered up some of the repair but the pic wasn't clear without it. Old camera.....



Oh, yeah. Animal gelatin is used in all kinds of products. Basically, even though its edible, HHG is made from cow hides and is not used in food products. Food product gelatin is made from pig skin.Things like shampoos, face masks, and other cosmetics; fruit gelatins and puddings (such as Jell-O); in candies, marshmallows, cakes, ice cream, and yogurts, and in vitamins as a coating and as capsules, and it is sometimes used to assist in “clearing” wines. (Don't tell the muslims!)

Again, nice work.
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arumako
Posted 2015-07-22 2:53 AM (#513661 - in reply to #513318)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project



Joined:
October 2012
Posts: 1018

Location: Yokohama, Japan
Nice work clrules! Did a great job on the headstock! Thoroughly enjoying your progress and DanSavage's extraordinary advice. Can't wait to see what you do with the soundboard. Keep up the awesome work, and keep posting so that we can all benefit from your journey!
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clrules
Posted 2015-07-24 3:56 PM (#513734 - in reply to #513661)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project


Joined:
September 2005
Posts: 138

Location: Birmingham, AL
Got the thin rosette from John Budny and although just a little smaller fits pretty well. I didn't take off all the white undercoat on the old one so there's a white border around the outside. The hole on the rosette was smaller so just sanded the hole out with #400 then smoothed out with #600. It now has a white border around the soundhole looks cool. Once the rosette is finished over it might not look too bad.



Looked over the bracing and the X is attached completely to the top. There was a small reinforcement strip on the top almost at the end block that had practically come completely loose so I just removed it. Think it provided the same function as the fiberglass reinforcement on the older models. I got out the Hysol and ran a bead around the top and secured the glued area with some clamping tape, a 20lb 2x4 block of Brazilian Rosewood and my Granny's old iron. Looks like it's holding well didn't have clamps that would fit the Ovation.





Hopefully that will be cured in a few days and I can put the tuners on it and string it up to see if it'll hold up.
If it does then on to finish up the top crack repair, installing the binding, refinishing the headstock and making a new TRC

Edited by clrules 2015-07-24 4:01 PM
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DanSavage
Posted 2015-07-24 4:37 PM (#513735 - in reply to #513318)
Subject: RE: Balladeer Deluxe Project



Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 2303

Location: Lake Forest, CA
Sweet!

The new rosette looks cool and it really fits in.

Even though the hysol requires 72 hours to fully cure, it's pretty strong after 24. For this application I'd wait the full 72 hours, just to be sure.

While you've got the binding off, do me a favor. Try to measure the thickness of the top at the upper bout up by the neck and at the lower bout down by the strap button.

I'm curious if it's tapered in thickness like the 1967 or if, by 1968, they started making the tops a constant thickness like the later guitars.
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clrules
Posted 2015-07-24 5:23 PM (#513737 - in reply to #513735)
Subject: RE: Balladeer Deluxe Project


Joined:
September 2005
Posts: 138

Location: Birmingham, AL
I'll look at the top when the weights come off. Just looking at it I'd say it's tapered. At the top near the rosette there's a definite channel for the purfling and at the end block the top is even thickness with the purfling. I'll take pictures and measurements later.
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DanSavage
Posted 2015-07-24 6:30 PM (#513738 - in reply to #513737)
Subject: Re: Balladeer Deluxe Project



Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 2303

Location: Lake Forest, CA
ABSOLUTELY DO NOT TRY TO MEASURE THICKNESS WHILE THE GLUE IS DRYING!

That being said, thanks!

Edited by DanSavage 2015-07-24 6:30 PM
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